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If one grower can be said
to have put Gigondas on the map then that would be Yves Gras at Santa Duc. Yves
took over the domaine upon the retirement of his father in 1985, previously the
entire production was sold in bulk to the negotiates. Yves then took it upon
himself to bottle his father's 1982 wine which was still in barrel and look for
customers. Eighteen years later, with a brand new cuverie and a demand that way
out-strips supply, Yves can boast that 95% of his entire production goes for
export: an extraordinary achievement. The estate comprises nineteen hectares of
vineyards with ten hectares in Gigondas itself. A strong believer in Mourvedre,
Yves has slowly replanted many of his vineyards and now has around 30% in total.
Here, everything is done to limit yields, including removal of excess bunches in
July. Defoliation of the vines also enables the grapes to absorb more sunlight
and helps to eliminate the danger of rot in the Autumn. Yves harvests late and
personally sorts the good grapes from the bad as they are picked. In the cellars
the grapes are not de-stemmed and only lightly crushed before fermentation. The
wines undergo a long maceration, frequently over a month (in 1996 the Hautes
Garrigues cuvee was still fermenting, albeit slowly, a year after the harvest!).
Yves' 'flagship' wine is the special, limited Gigondas made from 50 year old
vines grown on the nearby hills known as 'Les Hautes Garrigues".
"There
are some other brilliant wines made in Gigondas, but readers will not find
anything better than Santa Duc's two cuvees." Robert Parker
Gigondas Prestige des Hautes
Garrigues
2001
$45.99 available
"Saturated ruby-red. Brooding aromas of bitter cherry, leather, pipe
tobacco and Valrhona chocolate; showing strong suggestions of surmaturite. Then
huge, thick and robust, with powerfully ripe, peppery, mourvedre-influenced
flavors spreading out to capture the entire palate. Began a bit aggressive but
turned increasingly silky as it opened in the glass. Finishes with great grip
and ripeness, with the tannins coating the front teeth. In its extreme ripeness
and huge dimension, this reminded me of a Chateauneuf du Pape from Henri Bonneau."
94 Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar #112
"The 2001 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige reveals a cooler
climate, incredibly delineated style with remarkable freshness for a wine of
such volume, intensity, and power. Layers of blackberry, kirsch, and cassis
flavors with underlying minerality as well as sweet vanilla caresses the palate.
This full-bodied, concentrated effort requires 4-6 years of cellaring; it will
keep until 2020." 92-94 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #145
2000
$44.99 limited
"The prodigious 2000 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige is akin
to liqueur of Gigondas. The color is a saturated purple. The bouquet of pepper
and blackberry as well as blueberry liqueur is followed by immense body,
fabulous concentration, excellent purity, and moderate tannin. Anticipated
maturity: 2003-2015." 91-94 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #138
"Grenache with 20% Mourvedre; bottled in September of 2002; went through
malolactic fermentation and elevage in barriques, 40% new and the rest
once-used) Full ruby. Explosive aromas of surmaturite: black raspberry, dark
chocolate, smoked meat, roasted nuts and garrigue. Huge and voluptuous, with
superripe Christmas cake and dark chocolate flavors. Roasted ripeness verges on
port-like. Finishes with rich chocolatey flavor and big, dusty tannins. A
massive wine that holds nothing back. 92 Steve Tanzer, International Wine
Cellar 1/2-03
1999
$41.99 very limited
"A blockbuster Gigondas, delivering lots of fruit and real grip of earth
and mineral, with massive, ripe tannins. Could be riper, but it's full-bodied.
Plenty of depth and terroir suggest a long life; it's worth cellaring to capture
the potential. Best from 2005 through 2012. 1,500 cases made." 93
The Wine Spectator 11/30/01
"The stunning 1999 Gigondas Les Hautes Garrigues Cuvee Prestige spent 23
months in barriques, of which 40% was new. Made from 80% Grenache and 20%
Mourvedre that achieved 15.5% natural alcohol, it boasts a saturated purple
color as well as immense body, a layered texture, and pure cassis, kirsch, and
blackberry flavors along with a subtle note of wood. The finish lasts for 30-35
seconds. There are 1,500 cases of this 1999, which appears to be the wine of the
vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2016." 92 Robert
Parker, The Wine Advocate 1998
Gigondas
Gigondas
is a rugged area of mountains and very rocky terrain located in the eastern Rhone
Valley. The wine is rich and focused with a complex leathery, red berry-cassis,
oak-tinged and rustic spicy-herb nose. It
gives off a beautiful but slight bouquet of sur-maturit?, or super-ripe
fruit. The palate is massive with
deep extract flavors of cassis and cherry, and a chunky texture that has plenty
of acidity. The wine finishes deep
and layered, with a rustic grapey note. The blend is 80% Grenache, 15%
Syrah and 5% Mourvedre from vines with an average age of 35-50 years. The wine
is aged in 1/3 foudres and 2/3 small oak casks for 14 months and bottled
unfiltered.
2002
$31.99
"The 2002 Gigondas (80%
Grenache and the rest Mourvedre, Syrah, and Cinsault) is surprisingly good. Yves
Gras told me that some of his Grenache lots came in at 17%, and he harvested
extremely late, trying to achieve as much ripeness as possible. The
medium-bodied 2002 Gigondas reveals good depth as well as an attractive attack
and a spicy finish revealing plenty of cherry and blueberry fruit. It tips the
scales at a whopping 15.6% natural alcohol. It will drink well for 5-6 years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #151
2001
$29.99 available
"Red-ruby.
Roasted fruits, spicecake, leather and licorice on the nose. Superconcentrated,
sappy and sweet, with a glyceral texture and terrific verve. This has an
impressively powerful core of fruit. Explosive back end features superripe but
fresh flavor and big but sweet tannins. Very strong Gigondas." 93
Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 1/2/04
"75% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre, 10% Syrah and 5% miscellaneous varieties)
Aged 14 months in old wood foudres, with 1/3 then moved into smaller oak
barrels. It is loaded with blueberry fruit as well as notions of acacia flowers
and crushed stones. A certain minerality is found in many 2001 Gigondas,
perhaps because this appellation has a cooler microclimate than other parts of
the southern Rhone. This offering possesses good acidity, considerable fragrance
and a medium to full bodied, long finish. It needs another 2-3 years to round
into optimum drinking condition and will keep for 12-15 years." 90+
Robert parker, The Wine Advocate #151
2000
$27.99 limited
"Bottled in April of 2002; aged 70% in barriques and 30% in foudres) Deep
red-ruby. Rustic aromas of nuts, resin, herbs, licorice and gibier. Big, sweet
and spicy, with flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, bitter chocolate and
spice cake. High-toned but fresh, with good structure and grip." 90 Steve
Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 1/2-03
"The fat, jammy, full-bodied 2000 Gigondas (14.9% natural alcohol) offers
aromas of minerals, blueberries, black raspberries, and cherries. While pure and
fruit-driven, I am sure there is more tannin and structure underneath the wealth
of fruit and glycerin. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2012." 89-91
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #138
1998
$29.99 very limited
"Distinguished, deep and complex Rhone, offering layers of wet earth,
mineral and ripe fruit in a seductive and harmonious combination. Superb midpalate
concentration. Full-bodied and intense, with massive but refined tannins. Still,
it needs aging. Best from 2003 through 2020. Highly Recommended" 95 The
Wine Spectator 8/31/00
"The 1998 Gigondas (which achieved a whopping 15.3% alcohol) is a terrific,
powerful, multidimensional effort with glorious levels of glycerin as well as
black cherry and cassis fruit. Expressive and flamboyant, yet fresh,
full-bodied, and lively, it will last for a decade or more. However, it will be
hard to resist young." 90 Robert
Parker, The Wine Advocate #131
Cotes du Rhone Quarte Terres
The
fruit comes from four vineyards (the Quarte Terres); Rasteau (1/3),
Seguret (1/3) and
a blend of Vacqueyras and Roaix (1/3).
A Provencal red of dimension and flavor.
Very purple and concentrated, this is a wine for those folks that look
for the authentic. A blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 8% Cinsault with
an average age of 30+ years. Made from lots of late harvested fruit, fermented
in tank with the stems and bottled unfiltered.
2001
$13.99 available
""The 2001
Cotes du Rhone Les Quatres Terres is terrific. Produced from a vineyard planted
just outside the Gigondas border, it is a blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and
the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a
bouquet of sweet blackberries, blueberries, and cherries, a superb texture, a
plush, full-bodied palate, and a long, supple finish." 90+ Robert
parker, The Wine advocate #145
"The knockout Quatres Terres is a great buy. Medium to full bodied, with
loads of black cherry fruit as well as hints of coffee and pepper in its meaty,
substantial texture, it is not easy to find this type of Cotes du Rhones, but it
will provide enjoyment over the next 4-5 years. It's a beauty!" Robert
Parker, The Wine Advocate #151
"Bright red-ruby. Rustic, superripe aromas of black fruits, game, boudin
noir and damp earth. Sweet, thick and hugely ripe but with adequate acidity. A
major chocolatey mouthful with freakish volume for a Cotes du Rhone (all the
fruit is from villages appellations, says Gras). Finishes with big, dusty
tannins." Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 1/2-03
Cairanne Cotes du Rhone Villages les
Buissens
Roughly three kilometers to the
west of Gigondas, Cairanne lies to the south adjoining Rasteau to the north. The
vineyards lie on the edge of what is known as the Plan
de Dieu (the Plain of God), which was formed by old riverbed deposits. The exposure here is south/south east. All of the fruit is harvested at vineyards owned by Yves
Gras? cousin, and the yields are well below the 52 hecto/hectare allowed for
the appellation of Cotes du Rhone Villages.
The blend is 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre, with vines ranging
between 30 and 60 years of age.
2001
$16.99 available
"Reveals the southern Rhone's rustic, animal side with high tannin, a
distinctive loamy/earthy component, good body, excellent depth and a certain
rusticity. ...this distinctive effort will drink well for 4-5 years."
Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #151
2000
$15.99 limited
"Red-ruby. Slightly medicinal aromas of black cherry and menthol. Lush,
mouthfilling flavors of black fruits, chocolate and licorice. In a very tender
style; sweet and easygoing. Finishes with sweet, even tannins." Steve
Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 1/2-03
Rasteau Cotes du Rhone Villages
Vieilles Vignes les Blovac
Roughly three kilometers to the
west of Gigondas, Rasteau lies to the north adjoining Cairanne to the south. The
vineyards lie on the edge of what is known as the Plan
de Dieu (the Plain of God), which was formed by old riverbed deposits. The exposure here is south/south east. All of the fruit is harvested at vineyards owned by Yves
Gras? cousin, and the yields are well below the 52 hecto/hectare allowed for
the appellation of Cotes du Rhone Villages. The
blend is 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre, with vines ranging between
30 and 60 years of age.
2001
$15.99 limited
"Full ruby-red. Superripe, expressive aromas of blackberry, roasted meat,
leather, spicecake and game; distinct hints of surmaturite Thick and highly
concentrated, with very ripe, palate-coating flavors of dark berries, spices and
roasted meat. Finishes with big, ripe, chocolatey tannins and excellent length.
A very impressive, thoroughly satisfying negociant offering from Yves Gras."
90 Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 1/2/04
"Offers up aromas of sweet white chocolate, black currant, tobacco leaf and
hickory like barbeque spices. Medium to full bodied, rich and substantial.
Consume it over the next 5-6 years." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #151
2000
$15.99 very limited
"The 2000 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Rasteau Vieilles Vignes Les Blovac is big
and rustic. A blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Mourvedre, and 15% Syrah grown on
Rasteau's steep hillsides, it reveals exuberant black cherry and blackberry
fruit with a hint of espresso and chocolate. It will benefit from six more
months of cellaring, and keep for a minimum of 2-3 years." Robert Parker,
The Wine Advocate
Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes
The Vieilles Vignes is a blend
of fruit from Gigondas? neighboring villages of Vacqueyras (25%), Rasteau
(25%), Seguret (25%) and Roaix (25%). This
wine is technically a C?tes du Rhone Villages, as it comes from the best
designated villages in the appellation. The blend is composed of 70% Grenache,
25% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre, from vines with an average age of 40 years. Yields
are held to 42 he/ha, 15% below the maximum allowed. This wine is bottled
unfiltered
2001
$13.99 available
"(Primarily from Rasteau
and Cairanne) Exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with a meaty, chocolatey
notes intertwined with berry fruit, pepper and earth. Drink this sizeable red
over the next 4-5 years." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #151
2000
$13.99 very
limited
"Dark red-ruby. Explosive aromas of black raspberry, chocolate and leather.
Fat, lush and full, with somewhat rustic flavors of black fruits, leather and
game and ripe firming acids. Finishes with ripe, sweet tannins. Very Grenache.
Really needs six more months of bottle aging." Steve Tanzer, International
Wine Cellar 1/2-03
Heritage
This
special bottling called Heritage is 100% Grenache, and is harvested very late to
ensure maximum ripeness. This wine
savagely attacks the palate with strong Provencal flavors, much like
the wines of neighboring Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
This cuvee is produced to give the
serious wine drinker an opportunity to taste pure Grenache.
This wine is virile and can be aged four to six years for added
complexity. A great value.
2000
$17.99 available
"The 2000 Heritage is another vin de pays from some of the estates youngest
vines. Made from 100% Grenache (all from the appellation of Gigondas even though
Yves Gras calls it VDP) it was aged in tank and bottled quickly to take
advantage of its vibrant, straightforward, black cherry and raspberry
fruit." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #145
Vaucluse Vin de Pays
2001
$9.99 limited
"The Domaine Santa Duc offerings include several lower level wines entitled
only to vins de pays status. However, they should not be overlooked. Santa Duc's
2001 les Plans (a tank aged blend of 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Merlot)
achieved 14% natural alcohol. It is a soft, delicious, black fruit dominated,
medium to full bodied red that is a sensational value. Not complicated, it is a mouthfilling,
velvety textured VDP Vaucluse to enjoy over the next year." Robert Parker,
The Wine Advocate
Yves Gras (on barrel)
and Robert Kacher
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