It is ironic that among major producers of Madeira, the youngest firm has the most impressive stock of very old wines not only on the island of Madeira, but in the world. Vinhos Barbeito was founded just 53 years ago, in 1946, by Mario Barbeito de Vasconcelos. The firm's incredible range of old vintages today is due to his foresight, since in the 1940's and 1950's Barbeito de Vasconcelos went around the island buying up large quantities of privately owned wine, some of it dating back to the 18th century. These old wines became the foundation for one of the world's most unique wine libraries. Barbeito de Vasconcelos bought his wines from small growers who had stocks of old, high quality wine set aside for a rainy day, as well as from old families who had put aside great vintages for future generations. Included among these purchases were some of Madeira's greatest wines, from the island's most important growing areas, including Cama do Lobos, Sao Martinho, C a m p a n a r i o , Canico and Ribera Brava. At the time Barbeito acquired them, these wines were virtually all still in cask, a traditional practice in Madeira, where 50 to 100 years or more in wood is mandatory for the very greatest wines. The long, slow oxidative process in cask adds to the wine's complexity. And though very costly to the owner, the evaporation in barrel concentrates the flavor and extract. Since Mario Barbeito de Vasconcelos' death in the 1980's, Barbeito has continued to keep its old wine in 600-liter French barrels, only bottling enough to meet its needs for the next two years. Along with D'Oliveira, Barbeito today represents the finest source for old Madeiras, not only on the island, but in the world.

"We are fortunate that the old shippers and growers reserved their best vintages as a 'nest egg' or an investment against emergencies. They just kept them in wood, locked away, rarely drinking them except for a wedding or an anniversary, selling them only when they were hard up. There was certainly a loss from evapo-ration, calculated at two per cent per annum but, on the other hand, this ullage was far sur-passed by the gain in quality." Noel Cossart, Madeira: The Island Vineyard

Bual Reserva Velha
1953 $169.99

Malvasia Reserva Velha
1954 $169.99
"Though not forthcoming in aroma, displaying butterscotch and hints of herbs, this has a seamless integration of components on the palate, balanced and harmonious, with vibrant acidity weaving throughout. Long finish, adding just a hint of dryness at the end. Gentle, with inner strength." 93 The Wine Spectator 4/30/99