During
the late 1980's, Alvaro Palacios traveled his native Spain selling French wine
barrels and other winemaking supplies. But selling barrels wasn't the only thing
on his mind; he was also in search of the best place to achieve his goal of
making Spain's greatest red wine. His ultimate decision to settle in Priorat in
1990, was a good one, for here he would achieve worldwide fame with
"L'Ermita" and "Finca Dofi." But there was another region
that had been a close contender: Bierzo. Located in northwestern Spain, it had
all the ingredients that Alvaro was seeking - incredibly steep hillside
vineyards, old vines, and distinctive terroir. And, most important, the
region is blessed with countless old vineyards of Mencia - a red grape that
originated in France centuries ago and many believe to be Cabernet Franc. They
found promising vineyards in a number of villages but quickly came to believe
that the greatest potential lay in a little town on the western border named
Corullon. A number of old vineyards lined the precipitous hillsides there, and
the local soils are a unique combination of schist over chalk. In Corullon,
Alvaro and Ricardo found a combination of soils, old vineyards, and a distinct
variety that they believed would yield their "Grand Crus." The debut
vintage, 1999, features two wines - one labeled "Bierzo," the other
"Corullon." The Bierzo wine is created from plots throughout the
appellation, while the Corullon derives exclusively from vineyards in that town.
Both are 100% Mencia from yields of less than one ton per acre. Like the
greatest Burgundies, they are wines of intensity and finesse. Unlike many
Spanish reds from warmer climes, they do not give up their secrets immediately -
they will require time in bottle or decanter to reveal all of their complexity.
Raspberry fruit predominates in both wines, to which the Corullon adds a
discrete minerality.
"All
of these offerings will appeal to those who love Pinot Noir, particularly French
red Burgundy. They are products of cool climate, bio-dynamic viticulture, grown
in severe conditions, harvested by hand with miniscule yields and bottled with neither
fining nor filtration. All from single vineyards they are aged in French
oak barrels, of which 80% are new. What stands out about all five are their
vivid aromatics." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
Bierzo
Corullon
2001
$39.99
limited
"Exhibits
a deep ruby/purple tinged color as well as a subtle, restrained, intellectually
satisfying bouquet of crushed stones, white flowers, and blue as well as black
fruits. Tightly knit, with crisp acidity, hints of licorice and blueberries,
medium body and a crisp, vigorous yet refreshing finish, it appears to require
another 2-3 years of cellaring ..." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
"Made
from 100% Mencia, planted on vineyards around the town of Corullon) Good medium
ruby. Pungent, cool aromas of black cherry, licorice, bitter chocolate and fresh
herbs. Juicy, firm and on the lean side, with slightly tart-edged berry flavors
and edgy acidity. Tightly wound and slow to open... Made from parcels
owned by Alvaro Palacios and Ricardo Perez, and purchased fruit." Steve
Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 7/8-03
2000
$54.99
very limited
"Highly Recommended. Beautiful and distinctive. This red marries savage flavors with sleek
structure, offering berry, wild herb, mineral and chocolate notes that build to
a long finish. It's tannic enough to age, but well-integrated enough to drink
now. Drink now through 2015. 1,000 cases made." 93 The Wine Spectator
11/15/00
Bierzo
San Martin
2001
$69.99 very
limited
"There are 160 cases of the 2001 san Martin. It is a singular style of wine
displaying a dark ruby/purple color as well as aromas of blueberries along with
a crushed stone liqueur like character. Fragrant and medium bodied, with great
precision/delineation, it is youthful and unevolved, but extremely promising.
Anticipated maturity 2006-20015." 91 Robert Parker, The Wine
Advocate #152
"(From southwest-facing vineyards at 400 to 550 meters elevation) Saturated
medium ruby. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, licorice, espresso and wild
herbs, along with smoky oak. Juicy, tight and bound-up, but distinctly warmer
than the Corullon bottling, with more texture and energy in the middle palate.
Finishes longer and chewier, with a note of dark chocolate and slightly drying
tannins reaching the teeth. Alvaro Palacios notes that Mencia grown around
Corullon at an altitude of 400 meters is often quite Syrah-like, while the same
vines at 800 meters produce wine closer in style to pinot noir. The San Martin,
Moncerbal, Las Lamas and La Faraona wines come from vineyards owned by Palacios
and Perez, most of which are between 60 and 100 years of age; crop levels for
these four wines, according to Palacios, were in the 15 hectoliters-per-hectare
range." 89-90 Steve
Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 7/8-03
Bierzo
Moncerbal
2001
$74.99
$69.99 very
limited
"Limestone, chalk and slate compose the vineyards from which the 2001
Moncerbal (185 cases) emerges. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, great
finesse and a striking note of minerality along with touches of blueberry,
licorice and earth. Medium bodied, with crisp acidity and sweet tannin, is
should drink well for 10-12 years." 91 Robert Parker, The Wine
Advocate #152
"80% southwest-facing and 20% northeast-facing vines at 600 to 750 meters
elevation) Ruby-red. Very complex, superripe nose hints at black cherry,
eucalyptus and bitter chocolate. Suave and lush in the mouth, with lovely lift
owing to harmonious acidity. The most filled in in the middle palate of these
wines to this point. Finishes with extremely fine tannins and excellent length.
The most refined of these wines." 91-92 Steve
Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 7/8-03
Bierzo
|