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DESCENDIENTES de JOSE PALACIOS Print E-mail

During the late 1980's, Alvaro Palacios traveled his native Spain selling French wine barrels and other winemaking supplies. But selling barrels wasn't the only thing on his mind; he was also in search of the best place to achieve his goal of making Spain's greatest red wine. His ultimate decision to settle in Priorat in 1990, was a good one, for here he would achieve worldwide fame with "L'Ermita" and "Finca Dofi." But there was another region that had been a close contender: Bierzo. Located in northwestern Spain, it had all the ingredients that Alvaro was seeking - incredibly steep hillside vineyards, old vines, and distinctive terroir. And, most important, the region is blessed with countless old vineyards of Mencia - a red grape that originated in France centuries ago and many believe to be Cabernet Franc. They found promising vineyards in a number of villages but quickly came to believe that the greatest potential lay in a little town on the western border named Corullon. A number of old vineyards lined the precipitous hillsides there, and the local soils are a unique combination of schist over chalk. In Corullon, Alvaro and Ricardo found a combination of soils, old vineyards, and a distinct variety that they believed would yield their "Grand Crus." The debut vintage, 1999, features two wines - one labeled "Bierzo," the other "Corullon." The Bierzo wine is created from plots throughout the appellation, while the Corullon derives exclusively from vineyards in that town. Both are 100% Mencia from yields of less than one ton per acre. Like the greatest Burgundies, they are wines of intensity and finesse. Unlike many Spanish reds from warmer climes, they do not give up their secrets immediately - they will require time in bottle or decanter to reveal all of their complexity. Raspberry fruit predominates in both wines, to which the Corullon adds a discrete minerality.

"All of these offerings will appeal to those who love Pinot Noir, particularly French red Burgundy. They are products of cool climate, bio-dynamic viticulture, grown in severe conditions, harvested by hand with miniscule yields and bottled with neither fining nor filtration. All from single vineyards they are aged in French oak barrels, of which 80% are new. What stands out about all five are their vivid aromatics." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate



Bierzo
Corullon
2001 $39.99 limited
"Exhibits a deep ruby/purple tinged color as well as a subtle, restrained, intellectually satisfying bouquet of crushed stones, white flowers, and blue as well as black fruits. Tightly knit, with crisp acidity, hints of licorice and blueberries, medium body and a crisp, vigorous yet refreshing finish, it appears to require another 2-3 years of cellaring ..." Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate
"Made from 100% Mencia, planted on vineyards around the town of Corullon) Good medium ruby. Pungent, cool aromas of black cherry, licorice, bitter chocolate and fresh herbs. Juicy, firm and on the lean side, with slightly tart-edged berry flavors and edgy acidity. Tightly wound and slow to open... Made from parcels owned by Alvaro Palacios and Ricardo Perez, and purchased fruit." Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 7/8-03

2000
$54.99 very limited
"Highly Recommended. Beautiful and distinctive. This red marries savage flavors with sleek structure, offering berry, wild herb, mineral and chocolate notes that build to a long finish. It's tannic enough to age, but well-integrated enough to drink now. Drink now through 2015. 1,000 cases made." 93 The Wine Spectator 11/15/00

Bierzo San Martin
2001 $69.99
very limited
"There are 160 cases of the 2001 san Martin. It is a singular style of wine displaying a dark ruby/purple color as well as aromas of blueberries along with a crushed stone liqueur like character. Fragrant and medium bodied, with great precision/delineation, it is youthful and unevolved, but extremely promising. Anticipated maturity 2006-20015." 91 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #152
"(From southwest-facing vineyards at 400 to 550 meters elevation) Saturated medium ruby. Aromas of black raspberry, blackberry, licorice, espresso and wild herbs, along with smoky oak. Juicy, tight and bound-up, but distinctly warmer than the Corullon bottling, with more texture and energy in the middle palate. Finishes longer and chewier, with a note of dark chocolate and slightly drying tannins reaching the teeth. Alvaro Palacios notes that Mencia grown around Corullon at an altitude of 400 meters is often quite Syrah-like, while the same vines at 800 meters produce wine closer in style to pinot noir. The San Martin, Moncerbal, Las Lamas and La Faraona wines come from vineyards owned by Palacios and Perez, most of which are between 60 and 100 years of age; crop levels for these four wines, according to Palacios, were in the 15 hectoliters-per-hectare range." 89-90
Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 7/8-03

Bierzo Moncerbal
2001 $74.99
$69.99 very limited
"Limestone, chalk and slate compose the vineyards from which the 2001 Moncerbal (185 cases) emerges. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, great finesse and a striking note of minerality along with touches of blueberry, licorice and earth. Medium bodied, with crisp acidity and sweet tannin, is should drink well for 10-12 years." 91 Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate #152
"80% southwest-facing and 20% northeast-facing vines at 600 to 750 meters elevation) Ruby-red. Very complex, superripe nose hints at black cherry, eucalyptus and bitter chocolate. Suave and lush in the mouth, with lovely lift owing to harmonious acidity. The most filled in in the middle palate of these wines to this point. Finishes with extremely fine tannins and excellent length. The most refined of these wines." 91-92
Steve Tanzer, International Wine Cellar 7/8-03


Bierzo